At 15.2%, the Humbrechts’ 2007 Pinot Gris Rangen Clos Saint Urbain is alcoholically lighter than recent extreme renditions, thanks in this instance to having left behind noticeable residual sugar. Intense peat, iodine, smoked meat, and game make for an impression combining elements of malt whisky and Syrah, although there are also recognizable allusions to pit fruits. In the mouth the wine is oily and quite viscous, with its smoky and carnal elements following through a long, slightly warm, slightly sweet, memorably unusual finish. This striking act of nature seems to be waiting for completion, and perhaps it’s simply a matter of giving the wine sufficient time in bottle to knit. As with several of its siblings, watchful cellaring would seem to be the best course.